The luxury industry is grappling with a significant downturn in Chinese spending, a trend that analysts and executives do not expect to reverse this year. This prolonged economic deceleration, coupled with stringent measures against displays of wealth by Chinese authorities, has significantly affected top-tier brands, resulting in a loss of nearly $200 billion in the sector's value in recent months.
LVMH, the world's largest luxury conglomerate, reported a 14% drop in its Asian sales, including China but excluding Japan, for the three months ending in June. This represents a deterioration from a 6% decline in the previous quarter. Overall revenue growth for LVMH has slowed to 1% for the period.
Despite these setbacks, Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive of LVMH, remains cautiously optimistic. "The results for the first half of the year reflect LVMH's remarkable resilience... in a climate of economic and geopolitical uncertainty. While remaining vigilant in the current context, the Group approaches the second half of the year with confidence," Arnault told investors.
Shares in LVMH, which owns prestigious brands such as Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Tiffany & Co, have fallen by nearly 20% over the past year.
The decline is not limited to LVMH. Burberry, the upmarket British fashion house, reported a more than 20% decrease in sales in mainland China compared to the previous year. Similarly, the Swiss watchmaker Swatch Group, which owns brands like Blancpain, Longines, and Omega, experienced a 14.4% fall in sales for the first half of 2024. Richemont, the parent company of Cartier, saw a 27% year-on-year decline in sales across China, Hong Kong, and Macau in the quarter ending June 30. Hugo Boss has also downgraded its sales forecasts, citing weak consumer demand in markets including China and the UK.
Upcoming financial results from other luxury giants like Hermes and Kering, the owner of Gucci, are highly anticipated this week.
Recent economic data from China highlights continued struggles in recovering from the pandemic downturn, with both second-quarter growth and June retail sales falling short of expectations.
According to Reuters, Bain & Company, a consultancy, noted that China accounted for 16% of the €362 billion ($393.8 billion) in global luxury spending last year. However, the current economic challenges have led to a cautious consumer base, with middle-class shoppers cutting back on big-ticket items.
Bain predicts that this year will be the weakest for the global luxury market since the pandemic's height. China's wealthy individuals are now avoiding flaunting their wealth in favor of more discreet fashion, partly due to government crackdowns on ostentatious displays of luxury. This shift in consumer behavior, coupled with regulatory scrutiny, poses significant challenges for luxury brands seeking growth in the region.
Investor jitters about China have wiped €180 billion off the luxury sector's value since March, according to Reuters' calculations based on LSEG data. A substantial portion of this-about €85 billion-was from LVMH, which was overtaken by ASML in June as Europe's second most valuable listed company.
Despite these challenges, some companies like Chanel plan to continue investing in new stores to remain competitive. However, the overall outlook for the luxury market remains bleak, with prolonged economic difficulties in China and increasing regulatory pressures creating an uncertain environment for growth.